While the coast calls to sun seekers and clubbers, inland is a haven of traditional villages, medieval castles and impressive ancient sites. Connect with the real Cyprus with this definitive guide. — Out & about — partying in Agia Napa or hiking in the Troodos, get the local lowdown with our informed coverage — Get under the skin — authoritative background information puts Cyprus' cultural and political sensitivities in context — Tasty Tavernas- plump olives, fresh meze and char-grilled souvlaki: discerning recommendations reveal the island's best — Find you way — more than 30 grid-referenced maps and up-to-date information on travelling across the Green Line